Hvězda to the Calvary

A 20.5 km point-to-point hike from Stvolínky past Hvězda and the Helfenburk ruin to the Ostré calvary and Úštěk.

An easy day linking some of the best small landmarks between the Holany ponds and Úštěk — a good introduction to this quiet corner where the Kokořínsko sandstone country and the České středohoří meet. I walk these hills often; this particular line strings together the favourites.

From the Stvolínky railway stop the route heads south past the hamlet of Litice to Hvězda, whose timber-framed houses under Vlhošť are worth slowing down for. Skalka at mid-route has the day’s refreshment stop — U Gregorů does honest beer and food — and from there the way continues through the woods to Helfenburk, the hidden castle of the Prague archbishops — freely accessible, and if you catch a weekend, climb the tower.

The last hills before Úštěk belong to Ostré: the twin calvary-topped summit above the village is a short climb and one of my favourite places in the region. From there it is a gentle descent into Úštěk, with time for the old town before the train home — and if you have a beer’s worth of waiting at the station, the railway pub is the real thing: proper atmosphere, though the looks and the regulars might startle a first-time visitor. Worth it.