Pond Country to the Ostré Calvary

A full-day walk across the borderland between the Holany pond country and the České středohoří, from Zahrádky u České Lípy under Vlhošť to the Ostré Calvary and Úštěk.

I keep returning to this corner where the Máchův kraj ponds meet the České středohoří. One day here gives you water, a lone big hill, tiny hamlets and a baroque hilltop. Transport is easy. Both ends of the walk are on the same Litoměřice–Česká Lípa railway line, so getting back to the start is simple.

From the stop the route passes Zahrádky with its burnt-out chateau and heads west along the chain of the Holanské rybníky ponds to Holany. The village has a place or two for refreshments. Use them, because there is nothing else until Úštěk.

Beyond the ponds the country rises, and Vlhošť appears ahead. It is the one big hill of the day and the highest point of the whole Kokořínsko – Máchův kraj area. The route runs along its flank through open fields and pine woods, with long views back over the water. Past the hill the paths go through quiet sandstone hamlets. Skalka is little more than a cluster of farms. The woods between here and Ostré also hide the Helfenburk castle ruin, a short detour off the direct line.

You see the Calvary ahead long before you reach it, three white chapels on a bare hilltop. A broad sandstone staircase goes straight up the slope. It is a good spot for a late lunch. This is the last climb of the day, and you look back over the whole borderland you have crossed.

From the Calvary it is a short and easy walk into Úštěk. You enter the town along its narrow spur to the long sloping square. Arrive with some daylight left. Walk the square, look at the bird houses under the rock and have a beer before the train home.