Pokličky and the Valley Pubs

A 16.6 km autumn loop through the heart of Kokořínsko — Mšeno, the Pokličky rocks, a legendary village pub and the valley pubs of Kokořínský důl.

An autumn day in Kokořínsko cannot disappoint. Mšeno makes an ideal start or finish — trains and buses both serve it, and the little town with its timbered square and first-republic swimming pool is worth arriving early for.

The yellow and blue waymarks lead west across the plateau past rocks with names as bizarre as their shapes, to the region’s most famous formation: the Pokličky, the capped stone stems above the valley, the right spot for the day’s main break. From there the route continues to Šemanovice — and to Nostalgická myš, a village pub with homemade food and properly kept Pilsner that deserves its reputation. Plan to be hungry when you arrive.

The descent drops into the Kokořínský důl valley, where the road concentrates what few people the region has — and a couple of good pubs with them; U Grobiana served our closing beer. Kokořín castle stands directly above the valley for anyone with energy left, and the bus from the valley connects to Mělník and the train to Prague.