Pokličky and the Valley Pubs

A 16.6 km autumn loop through the heart of Kokořínsko, from Mšeno to the Pokličky rocks, a village pub with a reputation and the valley pubs of Kokořínský důl.

An autumn day in Kokořínsko is my favourite kind of day. Mšeno is a good start or finish. Trains and buses both stop there. Arrive early and walk around the timbered square and the first-republic swimming pool before you set off.

The yellow and blue waymarks lead west across the plateau, past rocks with names as strange as their shapes, to the Pokličky, capped stone columns above the valley. This is the right spot for the day’s main break. From there the route continues to Šemanovice and its pub Nostalgická myš. It serves homemade food and Pilsner, and it deserves its reputation. Plan to be hungry when you arrive.

The descent drops into the Kokořínský důl valley. Most of the region’s visitors gather along the valley road, and a couple of good pubs with them. We had our last beer at U Grobiana. If you have energy left, Kokořín castle stands directly above the valley. The bus from the valley goes to Mělník, with a train connection to Prague.